50 things we love downtown
It all started here
In the mid 1800s, a small village of settlers put down roots at the crossroads of Poplar Head spring, a natural watering spot along an old trading route in southeast Alabama. The village later became a town, and in 1888 the town got a name: Dothan, after the Biblical city known for its water wells. If not for Poplar Head spring, none of what we know as Dothan would be here today.
Lunchtime strolls through the Wiregrass Museum of Art
Need to de-stress yourself on a busy day? Recharge your creative batteries by taking a lunchtime stroll through the galleries of the Wiregrass Museum of Art. The quiet atmosphere and thoughtful presentation of the art exhibits are guaranteed to change your frame of mind by time you’ve got to get back to the office.
We’re getting a new library
After years of speculation the Houston Love Memorial Library is finally moving forward with a long-awaited expansion into a new building to be constructed along North Oates Street next to the current facility. Plans were unveiled to the public at the end of 2011 and groundbreaking is projected to occur in late 2012. According to head librarian Bettye Forbus, the timeframe for completion will be dependent on public support in a referendum coming up this April, so be sure to make your voice heard.
Local faces in the murals
If you look closely at many of artist Wes Hardin’s downtown murals you might see a few familiar faces; Wes likes to use local residents as models for his historical paintings of Dothan’s past.
Roasted Red Pepper Soup at River Nile
Many people love Katie Bell Hart’s sandwich selections at River Nile on Foster Street, but we always wind up going for a cup of her incredible roasted red pepper soup. Though the restaurant has moved a few times over the years, the recipe for the soup has thankfully stayed the same.
Live music at District
The hottest spot in Dothan for live music is at District, a popular lounge and restaurant on Foster Street. Owner Ignacio Handal focuses on booking local and regional bands for his patrons, plus the nightclub’s annual month-long Battle of the Bands is a big springtime draw in downtown Dothan.
Live performances at the Dothan Opera House
Dothan’s most recognizable building has been hosting performances of all sorts for nearly 100 years. Renovated for modern audiences back in the 1980s, the building takes you back to an era when traveling vaudeville and theater groups would perform for cities before catching the train to the next town.
Wood-fired pizza at Firestone Pizza
If you haven’t yet tried Firestone Wood Fired Pizza on South Oates Street you’re missing out on some of the best pizza in Dothan right now. The ingredients are fresh and perfectly cooked in the restaurant’s giant brick ovens, which add just the right amount of blackening to the pizza crust.
Locally-owned shops with locally-made products
Many of downtown Dothan’s shops are the only place in town to find one-of-a-kind items made by artists and craftsmen right here in the Wiregrass area. The shop owners enjoy getting to know their customers, which is a nice change of pace from the big-box stores where the anonymous 20-something register jockeys engage you in artificially-friendly corporate scripts about their latest rewards cards and bonus points while avoiding eye contact at all costs.
Downtown’s revitalization
The 1970s and 80s saw many businesses leave downtown for the new developments springing outside of the Ross Clark Circle. Beginning with the mural project in the early 1990s, the citizens of Dothan started to look for ways to bring its historic downtown center back to life. In the last decade more and more new businesses have chosen to call downtown their home as groups like the Friends of the Opera House, The Downtown Group and the Downtown Redevelopment Authority mapped out ways to keep improving downtown Dothan while also preserving its rich history.
The biggest American flag in Dothan
Old Glory can be seen from almost any vantage point in downtown Dothan thanks to the Dothan Civic Center’s giant 60-foot American Flag. Dothan Fun Fact #314: The huge flag flown at Bondy’s Ford on the Ross Clark Circle is actually ten feet smaller than the big one downtown. For a complete listing of our “5,001 Dothan Fun Facts” please be patient as we come up with numbers 1 through 313 and 315 through 5001.
Parties at the Grand
One of the newest event facilities in Dothan is also one of its most elegant, with natural wood interiors and its french-quarter style courtyard. They get bonus points for converting the apparently indestructable vault of the old Bauman’s Jewelers into an outdoor serving bar.
The hump on South Oates Street
Generations of Dothan families have enjoyed a half-second giggle as stomachs briefly lurch over the roller-coaster style bridge hump between Main and Crawford streets. We’ve found a nice smooth 30 mph to be the optimal (safe) speed for Dothan’s favorite cheap traffic thrill.
Stepping back in time at Porter Hardware
Porter Hardware is a glimpse back in time to a different era of retail sales. Alabama’s oldest continually-operating hardware store is part museum and part working hardware store with an intimate, customer-friendly atmosphere you don’t get from aimlessly wandering the gigantic aisles of big-box home improvement warehouses.
The bank building’s historic clock
First National Bank’s six-foot clock marked time for decades from high above the corner of Foster and Main Street. Dothan’s agricultural roots are noted on one side of the clock, with a stained-glass panel which reminded citizens “If we lose the soil, we lose all.” When Keith Givens moved his law firm into the old bank building a few years ago the old clock was found neglected in storage. This Dothan landmark received a full restoration and now is housed in the building’s lobby.
The Totem Pole at the Houston Love Memorial Library
Hungarian-born artist Peter Toth sculpted “Mus-Quioian” as part of a tribute to the infamous Trail of Tears. In the early 1970s Toth ambitiously set out to install different wooden carvings honoring Native Americans in all 50 states. Dothan’s sculpture was the fifth in his long-term project. You can see the others at www.dcschumaker.com.
Sitting on the porch for lunch at Mildred’s Tea Room
This charming little neighborhood lunch restaurant on Alice Street offers home cooked meals with a genteel Southern touch. The restaurant offers seating throughout the rooms of a restored family home, but our favorite seat is out on the home’s veranda. Well, except during our oppressively hot and humid summer (and in Dothan, summer is a loose term which refers to the period of time between late March and mid-October).
Browsing art at The Nature Gallery
The dark wooden interior of The Nature Gallery on Foster Street is a tranquil place to browse local artwork created from and inspired by the natural world. Five minutes spent here is nearly as relaxing as a trip to a day spa.
The Dixie Depot renovation
The train station in the Dixie area of downtown had fallen into disrepair over the years until the Dothan Landmarks Foundation restored it a few years ago. The trains might not be dropping off passengers anymore, but the building stands as a testament to the importance of the railroad industry to Dothan in the early 20th century.
Porter Park
One of Dothan’s nicest green spaces can be found in the heart of downtown on Foster Street. The small park contains a staging area for live performances, landscaped paths, a wall fountain and a beautiful ivy-covered wall. The space was donated to the city by the Porters, one of Dothan’s oldest families and owners of Porter Hardware. It’s a great place to meet someone downtown or enjoy the sunshine and fresh air on an afternoon stroll.
Cinnabon at Moe’s
We love these giant, gooey cinnamon rolls, a staple in many food courts. Moe’s Southwest Grill on the corner of Main and St. Andrews streets has a small Cinnabon rack next to the cash register – be sure to save room.
“The Abduction of Elizabeth Dill” and “The Dothan Riot” murals
Most of downtown Dothan’s outdoor murals show dignified scenes of Dothan’s noble past with a hint of Norman Rockwell’s artistic style. Passersby have been known to do a double-take at “The Abduction of Elizabeth Gill” and “The Dothan Riot” thanks to the violence shown in these two murals, which make a chuckle-worthy contrast to downtown’s trannquil atmosphere. Kudos to the artists for doing something a little different here. Sidenote: fans of NBC’s popular show “Parks & Recreation” will note that one of the similarities between fictional Pawnee, Indiana, and not-so-fictional Dothan, Alabama, is the tendency to portray their towns’ less-than-glorious moments through unintentionally hilarious wall murals (seriously, check this out: http://www.nbc.com/parks-and-recreation/exclusives/murals).
Fine dining at Bellas
The upscale atmosphere and excellent cuisine at Bellas on Troy Street puts this new downtown restaurant on the short list for best date night choices around town.
The giant aerial photos of Dothan in the Civic Center lobby
Two six-foot by 12-foot aerial photos of Dothan (one from the mid-20th century, one from a couple decades later) give visitors to the Civic Center a glimpse of Dothan’s expansion over the years. It’s fun to spot familiar roads and landmarks around town while hunting for modern elements which hadn’t yet been built. If you hang around the lobby long enough you might hear overhear some kids on a field trip wondering if this is what the old folks did before Google Maps.
Buying fresh produce at the Poplar Head Farmers Market
On Saturday mornings in June, July and August the Poplar Head Farmers Market offers a delightful atmosphere for purchasing fresh fruits and vegetables from local farms. The Wiregrass Museum of Art has activities for the kids and a few local musicians sometimes show up. It’s a great spot to catch up with local folks after a long week.
Photo opportunities
Downtown Dothan is a popular spot around town for snapping photos with the murals, buildings and green spaces. Local portrait photographers can often be seen with couples and families setting up shots using the exposed brick and ivy-covered wall of Porter Park. The exterior and interior of the Wiregrass Museum of Art is also a great location for setting up shots. Be sure to get their permission if you’re going to use a flash indoors as some of the artwork on the walls can be sensitive to bright light.
Reading all the wall signs at Blue Moon Café
Most of these little hand-crafted signs along the walls of the Blue Moon Cafe are funny/cute, though there are a few groaners in there too. We think they should have a “Memorize the Wall Signs” challenge in which people who can recite at least 50 of their signs from memory gets one of their delicious shrimp po-boys free for lunch. What do you say, Jana?
The Snow Zone at Downtown Christmas
During the annual Downtown Christmas Festival on Foster and Saint Andrews streets a small section of a downtown parking lot is sprayed down with shaved ice so our kids can see this mysterious “snow” stuff that Granddad had to trudge through on his 15-mile walk to school every day (uphill both ways, to steal a line from Bill Cosby). Dothan’s kids honor Granddad’s hard times by staging a six-hour, city-sanctioned snowball free-for-all.
Unique architecture
As with most cities, the most interesting buildings are usually found where the community first got started. Displaying a variety of architectural styles from over the years, the buildings of downtown Dothan are a mixture of form and function, mostly standing the test of time over the decades. The Dothan Opera House, Federal Court House, First National Bank building and five-story Gamble Firm building all evoke memories of a bygone era while finding a firm role for themselves in the 21st century. The oldest building downtown happens to be the two-story structure at the corner of Main and St. Andrews streets. Next time you open the door and they yell out, “Welcome to Moe’s!” stop and remind yourself that 100 years ago those walls held a corner market and the infamous Dothan Riot took place right outside its doors.
Mollywood’s new French Quarter shop
Sometimes downtown revitalization happens in unexpected ways -- Foster Street’s newest shop rose from the rubble of a building which collapsed last year while undergoing restoration. The French Quarter offers home interior items, unique imports and handcrafted furniture and accents from local designers.
Cherry Street AME Church
The oldest African Methodist Episcopal (A.M.E.) church in Alabama, Cherry Street A.M.E. Church was organized as a small wooden chapel next to a graveyard in 1877. The current red brick church was constructed in 1908 and has stood the test of time for Dothan’s A.M.E. congregation. The state’s A.M.E. organization calls it their “mother church.”
The seared tuna at District
Downtown’s best nightspot also has a full restaurant menu, with a full kitchen serving mouth-watering snacks and meals throughout the night. One of our favorites is the delicious seared tuna, a light and delicate selection which doesn’t sit too heavy on the stomach late at night.
The World’s Smallest City Block
An important-looking marker declares a minor triangle of pinestraw in the middle of Museum Avenue as “The World’s Smallest City Block.” Up until the 1950s this small traffic island was part of a 39-foot by 27-foot “city block” which held a single building. The space was featured in the then-popular newspaper strip “Ripley’s Believe It Or Not.” By the early 1960s the building was gone and the space had been shaved down to a smaller size. In 1964 Dothan’s Camelia Garden Club planted a few flowers and stuck a marker on it, cementing Dothan’s status as a major tourist stop for future generations. Or not.
Bike races at Dothan CityFest in the spring
Downtown’s annual spring festival features bicycle races for all ages throughout the day. The Dothan PD blocks off two square blocks downtown so dozens of area cyclists can have a decent sized circuit on which to race.
The view from the 6th floor of the Houston County Admin building
One of the better views of downtown Dothan can be seen from the windows of the elevator lobby on the 6th floor of the Houston County Administration Building. Wisely, these windows don’t open, or else there might be a few jumpers from the Vehicle Tag Line down on the first floor.
Yard Party for Art at the Wiregrass Museum of Art
One of the hottest tickets in town is the Wiregrass Museum of Art’s annual Yard Party for Art. And by hottest ticket we’re speaking literally and figuratively, as Yard Party for Art usually takes place in late August. Bring your lawn chairs in the evening and stay well past midnight for live music, great food and fun folks.
Gourmet Wine Tasting dinners at Basketcase Café
Once a month, Donna and Rick Balzaratti of the Basketcase Cafe host a gourmet wine tasting dinner with a special menu designed to complement the evening’s wine selections. An evening with the Balzarattis is highly recommended if you’re looking for a different kind of dining experience in town.
Finding a hidden treasure at Vintage Chic
Berna Dean Flanagan’s shop on Foster Street holds a variety of interesting curiosities from years past. You never know what memories you might find there. Her selection of vintage clothing is definitely worth a look.
George Washington Carver Interpretive Museum
The accomplishments of Dr. George Washington Carver and other African-American scientists and inventors are honored downtown in a distinctively curved building on North Foster Street. One of the highlights of the museum are the educational murals created by local mural artist Wes Hardin, who’s responsible for many of downtown’s murals.
Performances at the Featured Players Theater
If you’re looking for an unconventional theater experience, try taking in one of the fun and quirky productions of the Featured Players Theater on North St. Andrews Street. “People spend so much time staring at screens that when they see something three dimensional – live actors performing right in front of them – they realize it’s truly something special,” says Featured Players owner Michael Prichard.
Taking a mid-day stroll around the block
The wide brick sidewalks along Foster, Troy, St. Andrews and Main streets offer pedestrians a friendly, scenic walk around downtown’s most historic streets. Like in most small towns, you’re sure to bump into some folks you know and odds are they’ll be happy to chat for a minute.
Colbys’ home cooking
Robin Thagard’s first downtown restaurant (the other being the new Bellas just down the block) offers buffet-style home cooking with an emphasis on fresh country vegetables and delicious desserts. Robin also runs the neighboring Bellas, making her one of dontown’s busiest restaurant owners.
Finding great bargains for a good cause at the Good News Thrift Shop
Volunteers from the Episcopal Church of Nativity maintain this little shop crammed full of items on Foster Street. You never know what you might find in there.
The interactive exhibits in the Children’s Gallery at the Wiregrass Museum of Art
A trip to the Wiregrass Museum of Art isn’t complete without a trip to the Children’s Gallery on the bottom floor. The creative and interactive displays encourage little visitors to stretch their creative minds and have a little fun in an otherwise hands-off museum.
The old courthouse bell
When the original Houston County Courthouse was torn down in the late 1950s, the clocktower bell from 1905 found a home at Emfinger Steel. For almost 40 years it was used to announce lunch and quitting time out in the scrap yard. A few years ago the Emfinger family donated the bell back to the county and today it sits on a pedestal in front of the current Houston County courthouse.
Historical photos on display in District and the old bank building
If you’ve got a few minutes to spare while downtown step inside District and the old bank building (now Jacoby & Meyers) on Foster Street for a glimpse of downtown’s glory years. Frank Gaines, a local photographer and historian, provided the buildings with a couple dozen framed photos of downtown Dothan’s bustling past from the early and mid 20th century.
Tradeshow events at the Dothan Civic Center
We always love going down to the Civic Center for annual tradeshow style-events such as the Holiday of Hope marketplace, the Bridal Extravaganza and the chamber’s Spotlight on Business. It’s a great opportunity to meet new people, reconnect with old friends and learn something new about the businesses in the area.
The Live Oak trees at Foster and Main streets
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The lobby of the Charles Woods building
Now the home of WTVY Channel 4 and 95.5 FM, this downtown landmark was once the Houston Hotel. The old hotel’s ballroom was home to many civic events in the years before the Dothan Civic Center. The lobby of the building still maintains the elegance of the Houston Hotel with its high ceiling, muted lighting and grand marble staircases.
A sense of community
What we love most about downtown is the sense of community which brings its shop owners, patrons and developers together. It’s this spirit which has turned an abandoned power plant into a museum of art. It’s this spirit which has nurtured the redevelopment of its buildings (and the 23 murals painted along formerly-drab walls). It’s what keeps bringing folks back downtown for festivals, events and performances. Dothan’s sense of community doesn’t come from the Ross Clark Circle, the Dothan Pavilion or either of our Wal-Mart Supercenters. It comes from downtown, the heart of the city which will always be there for each generation to define as its own.For our listing of “and 10 things we don’t” please see the full January/February 2012 issue of Dothan Magazine.
